Bleeding/Reseting a CCP Check Valve

**rmc-goodguy** · 06-20-2011, 04:02 AM

Hi guys

My name is Peter from Germany/Europe. Sorry for my bad english so. I do own a ´31 Model A Hot Rod, a `29 Ford Roadster Hot Rod and a ´57 Del Rio Station Wagon mild Custom. Last year a torn off one of my brake lines on the Station Wagon, it was cought by my front axle thanks to the air ride! I build in a new brake line a few days later, but I couldn´t get the air out of the system. I changed the master brake cylinder, but I still couldn´t get the air out of the system. There is a valve installed (looks like the #PV-2 Disc/drum Prop Valve, Brass, says it is a CPP, see below) on the car and I´m sure this causes the Problems. I read in a forum I have to reset this Prop/Check valve after I had a leek in the brake lines but I couldn´t find out how to do this. Can you help me? I try to bleed the system for more than a year now and I want to finish the job before I get crazy!!

Thank You!!

Peter

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**CPPAaron** · 06-22-2011, 10:38 AM

Hello Peter,

Here is a link to our brake bleeding guide. This will have the info needed!

Classic Chevy, Chevrolet, GMC, Ford technical articles

**PeterM** · 07-16-2011, 03:42 PM

I'm installing front and rear disc brakes (from CPP) on a '69 Chevelle that was previously all drum, no power, and am not able to bleed the rear brakes. The fronts bled out no problem, and I now have good pedal pressure, even with the rear bleeder valves open, but no line pressure at all to the rear brakes. When I loosen the lines from the master cylinder, I get fluid. This leads me to believe the issue is with the proportioning valve OR something I am doing or not doing. Any advise appreciated! Thanks, Pete

**CPPAaron** · 07-18-2011, 10:07 AM

Good Morning,

You are tripping the proportional valves brake light warning. You need to always bleed out the rear brakes first. To reset crack all bleeders and pump the pedal.. If that does not work, you'll have to manually reset the valve by going though the rear larger fitting with a small paperclip or something and click the valve back to center.

Also, you are more then welcome to call our tech line. 800-522-5004.

**PeterM** · 07-19-2011, 05:19 PM

Hey thanks Aaron!
Yeah we started at the rear but forgot to bench bleed! Same reaction I guess.

**rmc-goodguy** · 07-20-2011, 04:32 AM

Hi Aaron

Hi Peter

I took the Valve body out of the car yesterday and took it apart. I had a technical drawing somewhere out of the internet and I think I undestand now, how this valve works. I had a test light on the switch and it went on! When I took the valve apart I have seen that the valve in the housing was stuck to the rear. I pushed it foreward, till I can see the gap through the warning light switch hole. I screwed the switch back in and the test light didn´t went on. I screwed eveything back together. Now the Valve body is in the trunk of my daily driver BMW M3 and is waiting to get back to the station wagon, hopefully this evening.

I hope, this sh..... works!

Greetings from (raining) germany

Peter