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From the July, 2011 issue of Custom Classic Trucks / By John Gilbert
Whether it’s the final step to completing a $30,000 custom paintjob or saving an oxidized $299.95 Earl Scheib special done long ago, the task is always handled with a polisher, pad, rubbing compound, and some polish. In the past, rubbing out a truck’s paintjob required a lot of skill and experience. Kids these days just don’t know how easy they’ve got it. If they want to take up photography, all they have to do is buy a digital camera, and everything a pro had to learn in college, the digital does automatically. It’s the same story if a person wants to do a little TIG welding. In this day and age there are TIG welders with simplified settings that make it foolproof to lay down a flawless stack of dimes. Back when I was a teenager seeking how to become a custom painter, learning the ropes was a guarded process that few established custom painters would share with a newbie. Pretty much everything I knew about the trade was learned through a process of personal trial and error that took years to perfect. When it came to the final finish, I learned a good wheelman could cover the tracks of a not-so-experienced painter. The saying back in the day was if you don’t get runs, you’re not trying hard enough, so I taught myself how to wheel-out some real rippers.
Nowadays when it comes to color sanding and rubbing a paintjob thanks to modern technology the learning curve isn’t nearly as steep. The manufacturers in the automotive refinish industry have gone to great lengths to uncomplicate the process.
We’ll start with the polisher first. When I joined the trade, the top guns used a Sioux, Black and Decker, or a Skil. In the early ’70s I didn’t have the money to buy a Sioux, so I went to a distressed freight store and bought something called a Makita for a lot less. I’d never heard of the brand and didn’t have much faith in it. I figured by the time the thing wore out I would be able to afford something better. As the decades have passed into the present day, my two-speed 9207SPB Makita sander/polisher has proved to be a top-quality industrial grade tool. For the DIY guy, Makita has introduced the 9227C; it’s every bit as beefy as the 9207SPB, plus it offers a six-position RPM switch that practically eliminates the need to develop RPM sensing instincts only acquired with years of experience.
The polishing pad has also been reinvented in recent times. Where two grades of wool bonnets were once the only choice, a multitude of foam pads and blended wool products have been introduced. Lake Country Manufacturing, in Hartland, Wisconsin, offers a complete line of premium quality pads. The emphasis should always be placed on obtaining premium; inferior quality products are a waste of time, money, and ultimately produce unacceptable results.
Third in the chain of what’s needed to do the job like a pro is selecting premium quality compounds, cleaners, polishes, and waxes. Starting with heavy-duty rubbing compound to fine grit compound, the folks at Mothers offer premixed formulas that can’t be beat. A premixed formula eliminates guessing the concentration is right and strict quality control ensures no granules of grit larger than necessary are present. Remember, just one little extra-large rock in the mix, and you’ll be grinding in deep scratches you’ll never be able to remove with a factory-contaminated brand of compound.
From start to finish, the bottom line to producing a job you’ll be proud of is choosing the best products available. If you are apprehensive that your first try will cause damage to your truck’s finish, practice on your wife’s Mercedes or the neighbor’s new Cadillac. CCT
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